The Local Flavors | A 48-Hour "Design & Dine" Itinerary in Palm Springs
Eigh4Nine Restaurant in the Uptown Design District
To really see Palm Springs, you have to look past the signs on Palm Canyon Drive. Locals know a lot of the magic is in the interplay between Mid-Century Modern architectureand the desert’s gourmet "hidden gems.” Just as architects like Frey, Neutra, Wexler and Krisel adapted modernism to the desert, today's chefs adapt global culinary traditions to local ingredients and a distinctly Palm Springs lifestyle. Use this 48-hour itinerary—inspired by our guided walking food tours—to eat like an insider while walking through history. While nothing compares to experiencing Palm Springs with an experienced local guide, this self-guided itinerary offers a taste of what makes our city so special.
Day 1: Old Hollywood & Culinary Classics
Morning: The "Two-Hour Rule" Walk
Start in the Old Las Palmas neighborhood. This was the epicenter of the Hollywood "Two-Hour Rule," when stars had to stay within two hours of the studios. Walk past Elizabeth Taylor’s former estate and the Donald Wexler-designed Dinah Shore estate (now owned by Leo DiCaprio) while admiring the low-slung Desert Modern architecture.
Lunch: Hollywood Vibes
Head to Eight4Nine in the Uptown Design District. It was our post office but is now glammed up in pristine white with pops of pink and large Hollywood black and white photos. Serving an elevated menu, it’s a local’s favorite. If you’re looking to stretch your dollar in high-priced Palm Springs, a limited, very reasonably priced lounge menu is available.
Afternoon: The "Museum Trail" View
If the weather’s not too warm, burn off lunch with a steep hike on the Museum Trail. Halfway up the Museum Trail, you’ll get a "drone-style" view of Frey House II, architect Albert Frey’s masterpiece, also his personal home, that is literally built into the mountain rock. Frey left the home to the Palm Springs Art Museum and it is now sometimes open for tours.
If it’s too hot to hike or you have energy after the hike, stroll up and down Palm Canyon Drive to explore the fun uptown and downtown areas. The La Plaza shopping area downtown is particularly historic and charming, done in Spanish Revival style and dating back to 1936. Uptown, beginning north of Alejo Road, is perfect for design fans.
Dinner: Old-School Dining with Sinatra at Melvyn’s
End your day at Melvyn’s at the Ingleside Estate. This was Frank Sinatra’s favorite haunt—he even had his pre-wedding dinner here. Book well in advance as it is very popular. If you want to go all-in on Sinatra, ask for his favorite table (#13), order Jack Daniel’s with a splash of water and a couple of ice cubes and top it off with Steak Diane prepared table-side. Enjoy the live entertainment playing the Great American Songbook, just as they did in the '70s. Our friend Daniele Alexander often sings and plays piano at Melvyn’s. Catch her if you can.
Day 2: Modernist Icons & Modern Tastes
Morning: Architecture & Design Center
Visit the Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture and Design Center. Housed in a 1961 classic International Style bank building designed by local architect E. Stewart Williams, it’s the perfect place to understand why the clean lines of Desert Modernism took the world by storm. The on-the-high-side ticket price covers entrance into the main art museum as well so you may want to extend your museum time to include both. Its about a 15 minute pleasant walk to get to the main museum from here.
Brunch: The "Secret Garden" at Farm
Tucked away in the La Plaza shopping area is Farm, a French-inspired tucked away spot that feels like a rustic courtyard in Provence. Locals love the crepes and the quiet, floral-filled atmosphere. Expect farm-to-table freshness. In my experience, everything on the menu is good. It’s one of my favorites in town. No reservations for breakfast or lunch so expect a wait, but they’ll text you so you can wander and enjoy till your table’s ready.
Afternoon: The Kaufmann House & Vista las Palmas
No Palm Springs architectural tour is complete without a viewing of the Kaufmann Desert House. Built in 1946 by Richard Neutra, it’s one of the most famous examples of residential architecture in the world. The home has become even more iconic due to the famous Slim Aarons photo called “Poolside Gossip.” Formerly owned by Barry Manilow and a film shoot location in the film “Don’t Worry Darling”. A long walk from downtown - too far for most so you’ll likely need a car or ride-share to get here.Meander through the nearby Vista las Palmasneighborhood by car or on foot to see fine examples of “Modernism for the Middle Class” - about 330 homes built by the Alexander Company in the early 1960s, with most designed by architect William Krisel and all built using mass production methods to keep the cost affordable.
The neighborhood is like a time machine back to 1962. If you’re lucky you’ll see some of the vintage autos from that era parked in the driveways and carports. No longer for the middle class, prices are now in the $2 to $6 million range. Recently the William Krisel designed, custom-built Elvis Presley Honeymoon House in the neighborhood sold for a little over $7 million.
Dinner: Michelin-Recommended Innovation
Experience the "new" Palm Springs at Workshop Kitchen + Bar. Set in a historic 1920s movie house, the interior is a bold, concrete-minimalist dream. The farm-to-table menu has earned it a Michelin recommendation, making it the grand finale for your gourmet weekend.
Before or After This Itinerary…
For a deeper dive into your Palm Springs Design & Dine vacation, consider joining Artisan Food Tours for a small-group walking food tour led by our expert five star rated guide. In our 3+ hour relaxed culinary gourmet experience you’ll sample generous amounts of fabulous food and delicious cocktails and wine at five different carefully curated restaurants and shops, including Michelin- recommended restaurants and chefs. You’ll also learn all about our pioneer, celebrity and architectural history. Are you ready to experience the finest flavors of our charming, walkable village?
Our fall season begins October 2nd. Reserve your spot now on the best food tour in Palm Springs at Artisan Food Tours.
Cheers and bon appetit!
If you’d like to learn more about our local flavors, simply scroll the Devour the Desert blog listings to find ones captioned “The Local Flavors.” You’ll see others similarly captioned for celebrities, architecture, history…
Dave Ball is a local tour guide and co-owner of Artisan Food Tours with his wife, Phyllis. He spends an inordinate amount of time thinking about Palm Springs history, neighborhood architecture and where to find a great meal. His current food obsession is local Deglet Noor dates with Fix & Fogg Crunchy Peanut Butter.